820 and skipped stitches

[bdcriswell]

When i try to machine quilt over items with steam a seam fusible I get skipped stitches. I've tried numerous needle and thread combinations. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[bunny9]

Have you loosened your top tension?

[bdcriswell]

no i haven't tried that. thanks for the tip. i hope it works

[bdcriswell]

bunny9 i tried adjusting the tension, but that didn't help either. anymore suggestions?

[bunny9]

I will try your challenge on my 830 & see what happens.

[bunny9]

try this trouble shooting at Superior threads.

http://www.superiorthreads.com/educa...eshooting-tips

[kmouse]

Try different needle types. I would normally use quilting needles for machine quilting, but try using a Microtex for machine quilting or a smaller 80 topstitch etc.
Also try a different needle size. Size up or down more than you might expect. The bigger the needle, the bigger the hole in the fabric....with the steam-a-seam layer, you might need to make adjustments.

[pamo65]

Are you using a straight stitch throat plate?

[bdcriswell]

i"m using the zig zag stitch plate.

[bunny9]

The straight stitch throat plate did it for me. The wide one that comes with the machine tends to suck fabric into the hole. I like the idea about the Superior Thread site-I use it all the time. Join up for their newsletter.

[bdcriswell]

thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try the straight stitch plate. I did have success with isacord thread and a 70/10 universal needle, but couldn't get sulky or gutterman to work. Can we only use cone threads with these machines? I've not had any problem with regular spools until I tried to quilt.

[bdcriswell]

Here is what Bob the tread guy says. It also makes a difference if your thread is vertical or horizontal.

I have skipped the last hook before the needle and it has made a difference along with the single stitch plate. Unfortunately Its all trial and error and can get to the point of hair pulling with all the different possibilities to test.. leet us know how it turns out.

2. Upper tension setting. Everywhere the thread touches along the thread path adds tension to the thread. Some longarm machines have more than 20 contact points, each one adding tension. Some home machines also have more thread guides than are necessary. Adjust the tension by reducing the number of places the thread makes contact with any part of the machine. It is OK to bypass some of the thread guides. The guide that usually causes the problem is the last one near the needle. Try skipping that one. Next, reduce the tension setting. Even if the person who sold you the machine told you to never touch it, don't rely on the automatic tension control. All machines have a manual tension override function for a reason. The more you learn to use it, the more versatile your machine will become. An auto tension control may help some but rarely does enough. On a scale of zero to ten, machines are factory preset to about a five. Reduce the tension not by small fractions but by 3 or 4 whole numbers. It is better to go way down and then ease back up than to go down one tiny step at a time. You will know when the tension is too loose when the top thread loops on the bottom.

These adjustments are easy and safe. The result will be more versatility in your machine. No more one-channel sewing. When I go to Baskin-Robbins, I don't want a double scoop of vanilla ice cream. I want to try those delicious fancy flavors. Give your quilting and embroidery a break from vanilla.

[kmouse]

I just finished reading a nice article on this topic by Diane Gaudynski in the latest issue (May) of American Quilter Magazine. Among the general tips in this thread, she suggested slightly increasing presser foot pressure when thinner "felt like" cotton battings. This is different than what I have been told, since my BSR instructions were to decrease the pressure on the presser foot. DG suggests when there is too much space between foot and the quilt, skipped stitches can result. I personally have more fun and success with the wool battings but that is just because wool batt is more crushable and easier to handle.

I guess the rule of thumb is to experiment. I would highly recommend American Quilter magazine, which a person receives when they join the American Quilters Society. Great magazine and great organization.

[kmouse]

On my longarm, the recommended distance between the hopping foot (in the needle down position) and the quilt top is the thickness of a single business card.

Created by CJ

she suggested slightly increasing presser foot pressure when thinner "felt like" cotton battings. This is different than what I have been told, since my BSR instructions were to decrease the pressure on the presser foot. DG suggests when there is too much space between foot and the quilt, skipped stitches can result. I personally have more fun and success with the wool battings but that is just because wool batt is more crushable and easier to handle.

[bdcriswell]

I called my bernina dealer yest and was told to bring in the machine. It may need an adjustment in the needle. If they tell me the machine is fine, I'll try some of your suggestions. Thanks for everyones help. I'll keep you posted.