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I am late to the party so I have only completed the 8 Small House 1 units so far. I realize this post is too late for everyone...
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by HelenWMost Color My World quilters probably think of you as the trouble shooter for all thing Color My World.
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I moved the first of the year but I had ordered the fabric kit. Now when I opened it i didnt find any directions or the...
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by midnight33I’m jumping ahead a bit....made brown fusible bias for tree trunks & now experimenting with dif shapes & fabrics...1 Photo
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by nhbasketsThought I’d start a thread where those of us using wool can post on progress when using this alternative medium for this...2 Photos
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Because I am using a dark background I plan to make lighter coloured trees. I know that the 14 yards of bias tape required...
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I can't find anything that mentions about what kind/size needle that is recommended if sewing with 60 wt thread on top and...
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Dyeing Gradations
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Dyeing Gradations
I've seen where a lot of lovely sets of gradations where people have dyed from one color to another. They usually have six fabrics in the set.
I'm interested in trying to do some of these. What I'd like to know is what proportions of dye are usually used in these. Has anyone done some of these who would be willing to share what proportions they used?Tags: None
- IP
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Here we go Teresa, If you are doing six gradations, place six containers in a line in front of you from left to right. Let's say you want purple gradation. Make up both red and blue dye. Be sure you use enough dye to get an intense color to start with because you will be adding water to them. Let's say you have 2 cups of red dye. Pour half of it (1 cup) into the first container on your left. Then replace the one cup you removed from your original dye with water. (Your original is now half strength) Pour half (1 cup) into the second container from your left, replace with water, Pour half (1cup) replace with water. Do all six. You will have dye left in the original cup. Use that for something else. Now do the same thing with the blue, but work from right to left instead of left to right.
The amount of dye will change with how much fabric you are dyeing. I have done this with 8 and 12 gradations. Try blending complimentary colors. You get the most amazing neutrals in the center. Have fun and let us know how it worked out. Betty Ann
- IP
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Okay so I ran a little experiment this weekend. I did two runs of six fabrics. I made some mistakes but I learned a lot.
I use dyes from Dharma. This weekend was hot (high 80s) and I dye outside. The first run was using Light Red (Dharma PR12) and Grape (Dharma PR117). I messed up the steps and didn't do them at the correct proportions for 3, 4, and 5, but I still like the colors.
Grape to Light Red http://ridethepig.com/FabricAlchemy/...stacked_sm.jpg
The second run was using Fire Red (Dharma PR10) to Imperial Purple (Dharma PR131). I had expected a result similar to the first but perhaps darker. I was wrong.
Fire Red to Imperial Purple http://ridethepig.com/FabricAlchemy/...stacked_sm.jpg
The Fire Red is one of my older dyes and at this time it looks nothing like a red and more like an orange. So instead of getting the berry colors on the other I got the brownish colors in the mid range.
I only let the cloth cure for a couple of hours and the colors weren't as rich as I expected. I want to do some more experimenting to see if it's the length of time I'm doing the various steps or if it's the strength of dye I'm mixing or if it's maybe my water.
It's always a lovely surprise!
- IP
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Looks good. I find it easier to just be happy with what I get than trying to get what's in my mind. Waiting to peek is the hardest thing about dyeing. I do my dyeing in the late afternoon so I am busy in the evening and have to leave it over night. The colors seem richer when left to cure. Keep playing . Betty Ann
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Since I had quite a bit of the dye left over from my adventure, I decided to try dyeing a gradation from the Lt. Red to the Fire Red. I am really happy with the results.
http://ridethepig.com/FabricAlchemy/..._fr_top_sm.jpg
In this group of five the 'pure' color is not included so they are all mixtures. Though I believe the photo is representative of the color variation, it's always arbitrary whether or not the colors will actually look the same as my dyes on your monitor.
- IP
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Betty Ann - A question from a total rookie..... do you track.write down dye mixture amounts and time left in the dye bucket? Or do you work more from experience and gut? Any advice for someone who is getting started? I have not attempted dying yet, but am slowly doing research and will jump in when the urge hits me. Thanks!!! Mary Kay
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When I first started dyeing, I kept a record of measurements of dye powder, water, salt and so forth. Now I understand that as long as you add dye and soda ash, you will get a color. The fun is in the surprise. I often just dump together what is left of the dyes. I have gotten some great colors. They are precious because they are a one time only happening. If you are planning to re-create any dye color you do be sure to keep a good record. I figure if the yarn companies tell us to buy from the same dye lot, that means they don't get it the same every time. Why should I try to. Relax. it isn't rocket science. You will get a color!!! If you don't care for it, give hand dyed fabric to a quiltin' buddy for Christmas. Have fun. Betty Ann
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I do not know if pot ash and soda ash are the same thing. The formulas I have used -some use salt some don't. If you want deeper colors use more dye powder or try adding a little black to your dye bath. As the chemical makeup of your water, the temp. when you dye and sooooo many other things factor in, each dyer must find the balance that works for them. Prepared for dying (PFD) fabric does make a big difference. If there is a finishing layer on the cloth, the dye will not bond with the fibers as well. All the extra dye in the world won't help if it can't get to the fiber. Keep at it and have fun. Betty Ann
- IP
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