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by midnight33I’m jumping ahead a bit....made brown fusible bias for tree trunks & now experimenting with dif shapes & fabrics...1 Photo
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by nhbasketsThought I’d start a thread where those of us using wool can post on progress when using this alternative medium for this...2 Photos
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Because I am using a dark background I plan to make lighter coloured trees. I know that the 14 yards of bias tape required...
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To stabilize or not to stabilize fused applique
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To stabilize or not to stabilize fused applique
I am working on a really cute applique quilt for an expected great grandchid due in June. I am using Pellon Lite EZ-Steam II fusible web (not the easiest to work with, even after a YouTube tutorial about it - but Steam a Seam II has gone bye-bye :x ). I have the base fabric square with the applique pieces fused on it. The next step is to buttonhole stitch around each piece. I have done limited applique in the past and can't remember if I used any stabilizer underneath or not. I have some Ricky Stable Stuff, but not enough for the whole project. I bought some "tear away" stabilizer some time ago only to find out that it only tears in one direction...very difficult to remove. I have also used just copy paper. But I don't want any puckering so am here for advice. I know a lot of you can help me.
Alexandria, VATags: None
- IP
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I think this is another place where you'll get lots of different opinions. Janet Stone suggests using stabilizer in her instructions for the BOM and that is certainly the safest route. I haven't had any problem with the fusible applique that I've done without stabilizer. I think it probably all depends on the weights of your fabrics and fusible and on how tightly your machine stitches. You could always do a test on scrap fabric and that would tell you if you need to use the stabilizer.
Nancy
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Annis...I use Golden Threads paper, too...often using scraps from other projects so as not to waste a lot !
I found that different machines need various weights of stabilizer as well as different fabrics need different
weights....test, test, test ! :roll: Question...Annis... re:BOM... do you have a favorite method for reducing
the size of these blocks ? :?:
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Thanks so much for all the advice. I got out my package of Ricky Tims Stable Stuff and lo and behold, I do have enough for the project, so I am home free. I did another block today and still having trouble with the fusible, but learning all the time.
Nancy
Coast of South Carolina USA
Sewing/Quilting on my Viking Sapphire 870
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Originally posted by idahoQuestion...Annis... re:BOM... do you have a favorite method for reducing
the size of these blocks ? :?:
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I have done quite a bit of fusible applique finished with single buttonhole stitching and have never used a stabilizer on the back. I find the stitching looks great if I loosen the top tension a bit down to about a 2-3, and use thin thread in the bobbin, it lays flat just fine. For a traditional look I like Aurifil 50 wt cotton or DMC 50 wt cotton on top, for modern I like Superior Rainbows Variagated 40 wt. on top. I use Aurifil 50wt cotton in the bobbin or So Fine 50wt poly.
I usually use Heat N Bond Lite for my fusible and cut out the middles of all the pieces so it is only like a 'donut' of fusible on the the edges - this keeps the appliques softer.
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You're welcome Pam. I leave 1/4" of fusible following the drawn line of the shape. If it's a small piece like a leaf or circle, I cut so there is about 1/8" of fusible left. I call this the 'donut' method. LOL It works great and if the cut out scrap is large enough, it goes into the bag for next time for other fusible shapes to be cut from!
Try it you'll love it!
In leafy Berkshire, south of England.
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Just for your information, Pellon has a problem with their Pellon Lite EZ-Steam II fusible web. I called the 800 number to complain & they are sending me Wonder Under to replace what I bought. They know it is "defective" so I would suggest you give them a call. Love the Ricky Tims stable stuff. It tears away easy or can just be left in.
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